Carrera go slot car racing village 4x8 Petros Theocharis. Carrera Go - Die Entwicklung meiner Carrera Bahn - Duration. 1/43 Carrera slot car track custom layout - Duration. Best layout for 4'x8', 04:02 PM. The Carrera GO chicane is a must because you need to be faster than your opponent, othewise the cars will crash. I like when both cars run very close from each other! Thank you for the video! ABOUT 22 YEARS MY TRACK STARTED OUT 4X8 AND IS NOW 22X6.
I used a hollow door because no one in my area had a solid flat door available ( they did for like 125.00!) and wile its cheap, flat and ridged, the track just laid down on a bare door of this type would make allot of noise during a race. To stop all this race detracting noise, I covered the door in felt. This keeps the hard plastic track away from the door.I also framed the door in 2x3' stock to make it very sturdy and give it a nicer edge around the track.Begin by bordering the door with your 2x3' stock, securing it with 3' screws ran threw pre-drilled holes.Then spray the top down with the spray adhesive and cover it with the felt, I used green felt as some might show threw.If you want this track to free stand you can now install some legs, like folding legs. Screwed to the bottom of the door. The track is secured with small trumpet head wood screws,This type of screw is needed because the door is soft and nails pull up.The heads are made flush to the track by heating the heads with the soldering iron until they will melt level with the top of the track.Melted plastic is trimmed off and you end up with a very flat surface.
With the base covered in felt you can now lay the track. The red and white borders can be made two ways, allot of office supply stores sell cork in 1ft ft square sheets in carious thicknesses.This is what I used, I would loosen the screws holding the track down and slip the cork under the curve, trace the profile and cut it out.Then I would leave about 3/4' to 1' width to make the piece. If you need to make it thicker to be flush with the edge of the track, glue some strip balsa wood to the bottom to build it up.It was lightly sanded, painted flat white with cheap acrylic hobby paint. Then the red stripes were added.After your paint dries, its simply nailed down around the track curves.The second methode is to buy the model railroad cork, its used under the rails to quiet it down, its a little pricey and will still need to be built up to the level of the slot car track.With either one you use after you have nailed it down, paint over the nail heads to hide them. The astro turf is 1/4' thick and you can get enough to do the whole track for under 20 bucks at Home Depot, You put it on after the track is laid so its level with the edge of the track.I started by nailing the strait parts down and using heavy scissors to cut it in around the curves, larger areas were glued down as well as nailed, this got rid of wrinkles.It makes a nice mess of loose turf, this can get in the slot car motors so vacuum it fully before you race.The first picture is how it looked without the astro turf, its not bad but I wanted a different look. I had a busted rubber made tub, this was cut up with the heavy scissors into strips to wrap the overpass.
As mentioned before I used a Tomy/AFX timing system that counts laps, runs the races with a countdown and has a sensor that is mounted under the track.This timing system is cheap if you live in Australia, for some reason thats the only place I could find to buy it.The shipping to the states will cost you as much as the device itself. I like it because its all the timing system I needed in one place without the need for a computer to run it.The only drawback to me is that the track sensor is kind of thick, so it was mounted under the over pass.Other types of home made one are out there as well as free software to run them.just google slot car timing systems. If your going to use stock AFX cars that run at 22v and dont mind the little controllers that come with the track, you will simply use two power tract sections and two power supplies. This is done so that power isn't shared on the track and the wreck of one car doesnt send a surge of power to the other car and it then wrecks.But if your like me and want to run the older cars as well as the new higher current cars you will need to get a better controller, I chose the Parma brand economy controller, its 20.00 bucks and has a three wire hook up shown in the picture. The third wire gives the cars braking capability, when you let off the trigger the cars stop on a dime, instead of coasting a bit.I also added banana plugs to the AFX power track segments, the old connections were only two wire. The track goes back and forth so much it was hard to tell what lane your car was supposed to be in if you wrecked, so I painted the slot of each lane a different color, its easy to do if you use the Testers paint pens, the tip can ride in the slot to make it easy.
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Multiple coats are applied to make them bright.Model railroad trees were added, their basses nailed to the door.Decals were added to the overpass, stripes, numbers, ect.Track adjustments are now made to match the lanes, some sections may throw the cars more than others, you must check and level each section of the track, smoothing out the bumps all around it.The transitons from level to the overpass are especially tricky. Take your time and shim each one so the transition is very gentle. I done his by loosening the screws and sliding in hard cardboard strips or cork strips then screwing it down again.I also used the AFX guard rails, but I nailed them down around the edge of the door to catch crashing cars.